Indian jewelry has been described differently at different times in history, with “flowery”, “handmade”, “heritage” and “festive” are just a few. Over the centuries, there have been many major influences on the style and design of Indian heritage jewelry. One influence that stood out and had a profound influence on Indian jewelry, clothing, and culture is that of the Mughal.
The Mughals ruled India almost five centuries ago. They invaded the country in the 16th century and for the next two centuries their art, culture, crafts and architecture permeated the land. During her time, jewelry making flourished. The simple necklaces and bracelets became more ornate, and the jewelry reflected the craftsmanship and craftsmanship of the artisan.
ORIGIN OF MUGHAL JEWELRY
The Mughal ruler in India in the 16th century brought with him the practice that kings wore expensive and heavy jewelry for most occasions. High-ranking emperors and courtiers wore pieces that were set with solid stones in intricate designs while in charge of official functions. When the Mughals married the Rajputhan families of Rajasthan on the northwest border, two different design styles came together to highlight the delicate artistic talent and refined craftsmanship that has shaped Indian jewelry since then. Rajasthan later opened as an exclusive center for jewelry making, and the fine and complex art of cutting Jali or making jewelry is believed to have originated here.
The Mughals influenced jewelry making throughout India. From Kashmir to Orissa, from Gujarat to Andhra Pradesh, its influence was so profound that cut stone chains and ingenious jade-tipped rings and jewelry turbans are very popular and admired by people. Hyderabad to this day is one of the places where they left the biggest mark, and the city still has some of its original antique jewelery that has been passed down through generations of families.
INFLUENCES IN MUGHALES DESIGN
In addition to Jali’s beautiful work, there are many other design influences from this era. Kundan jewelry, enameled and set with gemstones made of gold leaf, is still in high demand today. Kundan was adorned with courtesans during the reign of the Jaipur rulers and was considered an art form. It can be attributed to Jaipur and BikaneriGharanas. It remains an essential part of a bride’s traditional wedding bouquet and seamlessly integrates Indian motifs and religious symbolism.
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MUGHALM PATTERN AND SYMBOLS
We find Mughal influences not only in techniques and ideas. Taveez is an amulet with deep spiritual connotations for Muslims, and this also appeared in many jewelry models of the time. Today, this amulet is used in contemporary jewelry versions that can be molded into different pieces and are also unique in appearance.
Arabic inscriptions have been found on our buildings and monuments, and it is not surprising that they have also found their place on a necklace, bracelet or piece of jewelry. The Mughals often used calligraphy as a decorative medium. Swirls and scripts offer various creative options for decoration. These scripts were generally prayers, positive affirmations, and blessings for people who went to war. Today, most of these scripts can be found in contemporary jewelry.
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Unlike the traditional Indian stones that the ancient Indians practiced in jewelry, the Mughals introduced their own style to the country. Rather than fine gemstones and embellishments, more emphasis was placed on gemstone handling, preference for large stones, and unique location of design elements. The large stones and luxurious extravagance of Mughal jewelry trace its history to a time when the ornament spread not only for its price but also for its knowledge. Inlaying stones with gold, another unique technique, enameling and embedding gems like jade, which were built and flourished during his reign.
INFLUENCES OF MUGHAL COLOR
Green, white, and red were repeating color patterns in everything from clothing to decorations to jewelry. The Mughal design, corresponding to emeralds, rubies, and diamonds, is a recurring feature that is common to most ornaments. Mughal leaders actually called the emeralds “tears of the moon.”
Given the considerable influence of Mughals and their particular patterns and designs on Indian jewelry, our ornamentation is more exquisite, stronger, bolder, more colorful and versatile, and every piece of jewelry is worn everywhere.